How to Clean and Polish Stained Glass

It is important to clean and polish your stained glass to remove any tarnish or residue from the solder seams and capture the deep luster stained glass should have. For proper cleaning and polishing you will need finishing compound and polish. Finishing compound will remove tarnish and residue from solder seams. Polish is used to compliment the finishing compound. It provides a protective film and a shine that begs to be noticed.

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Steps for Applying Finishing Compound

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Pour finishing compound on your stained glass project. The project must be completely dry before applying finishing compound. Use enough finishing compound to lightly cover glass, solder seams and frame. Use a clean cloth to spread the finishing compound over the stained glass piece. Once the finishing compound dries and turns to a white film, use a soft scrub brush or cloth to buff off the compound. Turn the piece over and repeat this process

Steps for Applying Polish

Apply a small amount of polish to solder seams and frame. Allow the polish to dry, then buff to a brilliant luster with a clean soft cloth. Repeat this process for the backside of the panel.

Tips and techniques for Cleaning and Polishing Stained Glass

To remove white crusty areas on stained glass, use baking soda and water to remove white crust, then rinse, dry and re-apply finishing compound. The frequency of cleaning stained glass can vary depending on the location of the stained glass piece, but a good general rule is to clean stained glass pieces yearly. This cleaning can be done with a clean damp cloth or with finishing compound. Do not use commercial window cleaners as they can damage the stained glass panel.

How to Clean and Polish Stained Glass

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Colloidal Silver Side Effects

Colloidal Silver - though considered a powerful germicide - when taken in excess amounts can be a potential toxin to living tissues. As silver has no known biological function in the human body, it will be excreted within 24 hours. But, only a small quantity - approximately 50 mcg per day - can be excreted. The remaining silver particles are deposited under the skin and tissues as silver sulfide. This probably leads to many health issues.

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Argyria is one of the serious side effects caused by the prolonged ingestion of colloidal silver. It is a dermatological condition, characterized by grayish-blue pigmentation of the whole body. No effective treatment is available for argyria. However, no known cases of argyria have been reported from pure and protein-free colloidal silver.

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Excess colloidal silver consumption can even cause arteriosclerosis or the hardening of arteries. If left unchecked, arteriosclerosis often ends up in a heart attack. Deposition of colloid silver on the tissues results in organ damage and it also affects the normal immune processes. Intake of large doses can also cause neurological problems like seizures. Other possible side effects include stomach distress, headaches, skin irritations, and fatigue.

Sometimes, colloidal silver reacts with certain drugs like thyroxine, penacillamine, quinolones, and tetracyclines. So, great care must be taken while using these products, especially during pregnancy. Individuals with kidney trouble and liver disease should also limit the intake of colloidal silver, as they are more susceptible to silver toxicity.

In the light of the above facts, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has refused to approve the use of colloidal silver supplements for medicinal purposes. No colloidal silver ingredients or products are considered safe or effective. Moreover, the FDA has taken serious action against many companies for making unsubstantiated drug-claims for their over-the-counter colloidal silver products. Only those products approved under the FDA?s drug application procedure can be sold as drugs.

Colloidal Silver Side Effects

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Power Probe (PP PPSK) Self-Igniting Butane Soldering Iron, Hot Knife and Hot Air Torch Kit

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The Best and Easiest Way to Fix a Blown Out Speaker

Stereo speakers are built to last. Every time you turn them on they are submitted to abuse and punishment, even more so depending on the type of music you listen to. For example, music with heavy bass shakes everything in your home. Imagine what is going on in the speaker cone.

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Even the best, quality stereo speakers are bound to crackle from all of this abuse over time. When that happens, you may have the chance to save yourself some money by repairing those broken speakers instead of buying new ones.

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It all starts with finding the problem causing the sound problems. It can be an enclosure damaged or maybe it blew out from an electrical or thermal fuse. Problems with the voice coil are a common problem, sometimes the crossover network is faulty and even problems as easy as a solder connection can be the cause of your problems. Whatever your speaker issue maybe, it can be fixed. Here is a breakdown of how you can repair a speaker that is blown out.
The first thing you need to do is figure out which speaker is giving you problems. You can easily do this by playing around with the stereo's equalizer. Alter the balance and the fader to isolate the speaker causing the distortion in sound or if there is no sound at all. Be sure not to have the volume blasting or you run the risk of blowing out a good speaker. Once you've figured out which speaker is the bad one, you now need to take it apart. Try to do this step carefully because you don't want to cause further damage to a part which is working fine. Remove the faceplate of the speaker and then gently loosen the seams of the speaker's fabric without tearing it. Now that the speaker cone is visible, you can begin repairing it. Have some tape or glue handy since this is what you will primarily be using if the cone of the speaker is punctured or torn. You'll want to make sure the hole or tear is completely covered before moving on to the next step. Test the voice coil to see if it is damaged in any way such as if it melted at some point for example. If there is even the tiniest of gaps in the coil, no sound will flow from the speaker or it will sound extremely distorted, depending on the size. If you see that the voice coil is indeed melted, then just replace the speaker entirely. If you're going to need any replacement parts, now is the time to order them. They can either be found directly from the manufacturer but they can be expensive or from stereo specialties shops. An often overlooked fact is to know the part number or numbers of the pieces you are looking for. They are normally located on the inside of the speaker or backside of the cone. Doing so will make your life an awful lot easier. Now that you have all parts you need to properly fix the speaker, take a look at how the damaged part is attached to the speaker. Once you remove the broken piece, you are going to need to install the new one the same way. Now that you are all completed putting the speaker back to together, the only thing left to do is test to see if all your hard work paid off. Hook it back up to the stereo and test it at a low volume slowly turning the volume up to see if it can handle. If the speaker is still not working and you feel like did everything correctly, take it to a professional and let them fix it from there.

The Best and Easiest Way to Fix a Blown Out Speaker

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Cleaning Up Black Mold on Ceilings

Before you plan on starting a black mold ceiling cleanup operation, first inspect all the ceilings in your home and survey the damage. If it's just one or two rooms, say, the basement and the attic, you might want to buckle down to business and do the job yourself.

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This would involve taking down the ceiling boards carefully, wrapping them in plastic (to keep spores from flying around the house while transporting them) and cleaning them up with soap and water in the yard.

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Never attempt to clean mold-contaminated stuff inside the home. You will only spread the spores to other furniture or parts of the house, and in a few days, your mold problems are back!

Now, if you are asthmatic or are especially prone to allergies, don't attempt to do the job yourself, regardless of whether you're an excellent DIYer. Remember, countless persons have been rushed to the hospital for severe asthma attacks after exposure to the spores of black mold.

If the boards have already been severely damaged or are now too unattractive because of discoloration, you may opt to replace them with ones. This not only improves the look of the room but also ensures that no mold spores are left behind to again reproduce.

When cleaning off the black mold, always wear protective gloves and masks to protect yourself. And since you're working with a strained position - that is, looking up into the ceiling - you're also exposing your eyes to mold spores that may inevitably fall off. Put a pair of soldering glasses back on or any protective pair of glasses to avoid an irritation of the eyes.

In the shower, black mold not only grows on the ceiling but also on the shower room tiles. To clean them, prepare a mixture of water and bleach to kill the mold. You may want to purchase another cleaning solution to treat the discoloration, or if the black mold contamination is deep-set, you can opt to replace the shower tiles instead.

Prevent the recurrence of black mold

After a thorough cleanup, ensure that the Black Mold won't reappear soon by keeping humidity levels in your house at a constant 30-60% and no higher. Black mold thrives in extremely humid areas, so making conditions below their optimum levels would deter their further growth.

It would also be wise to have all leaking pipes fixed before restoring the panels which you have cleaned. You may have to shell out a couple of hundred dollars to have a plumber do a thorough inspection and repair, but the added expense may well be worth it, if it means ensuring your health.

Cleaning Up Black Mold on Ceilings

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Xbox 360 3 Red Lights - What Does This Mean?

If you are reading this page, it is probably because you are facing the Xbox 360 3 red rights on your console and you do not know how to go about repairing it. There is the obvious method of sending it over to Microsoft to get it repaired, but it will cost you quite an amount if you do not have warranty and to wait for your machine is a daunting deal.

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Therefore the best method for you to fix the Xbox 360 3 red lights is to do it on your own. The first thing that you need to do is to understand the cause for the problem and find an appropriate solution. You might have come across a common advice which is to wrap a towel around your console. This might seem to help initially, but you are digging your own grave, in fact the console's grave, if you are doing this.

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The reason why you are seeing those Xbox 360 3 red lights flashing is because of the temperature rise that can be seen inside the console. This causes the soldering of the GPU and the CPU to come lose causing the entire system to freeze. Hardware failures with respect to the memory unit that is the HDD can also create this problem.

You can cure the Xbox 360 red lights issue of you remove the memory units and the hard drive and then run the initial setup. Then you synchronize the controller and then start of with the game. This can resolve the issue at times. But if problem is with over heating, you need to start of by repairing the heat sink and re soldering the entire chip.

It is always better to make use of the services of an instruction manual when you are at it because this will give you a better way of handling the problem and will also help you with any trouble that you face.

Xbox 360 3 Red Lights - What Does This Mean?

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Testing Silver and Silver Grades

The law requires metal to be marked by the maker and the metal quality. For sterling, the mark will be either the numbers 925 (meaning 92.5 % silver, which is sterling) or a "sterling" stamp with the words. Look near the clasp for the mark, at the end of the chain. Sometimes the mark is on a little flat looking ring at the end of the chain.

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Sterling silver will tarnish and on some people it tarnishes quickly due to body chemistry, and on others it never tarnishes. To keep tarnish from happening, sterling is very often plated with another metal to protect the sterling and keep the tarnish from happening. The plating will be a metal called "rhodium" which is very bright or another metal recently used on silver that look more the color of silver. The chain can be sterling and still have the plate on the outside to prevent tarnish.

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Acid test can be done by a jeweler. Generally a test will cost some money, not a lot, but maybe not worth depending on what you paid for the chain. On a large heavy chain, the test might be worth it.

There is quite a bit of 800 silver and even 750, there may be an 825 blend also. Scams are always possible so it is best to have it checked if you are in doubt. There is a British mark 625 which is for gold and sometimes mistaken for 825 when an item is worn. But there are usually other British hallmarks included.

In the 1800's and thereabouts much tableware including flatware (knives, forks, spoons) was made with a silver alloy or 75% silver. This is certainly less than sterling which legally means 92.5% and also less than coin silver. I suspect European manufacturer. The only real way to determine the value or origin of the item is through those who do this sort of work with antique silver and tableware items.

If any marks including the 750 are hard to read, try this trick: With a candle soot the area of the mark. Then gently take some scotch or clear tape and place it down on the sooty area, rubbing gently. Then remove the tape and place it on a piece of white paper. The marks should show up just fine. This is like lifting fingerprints! It does work fairly well.

Tips on testing silver. Firstly it is important to realize that you do not use a touchstone for Silver. You should test the article itself.

Lightly scratch or scuff a small spot which is not seen (like underneath a silver teapot or inside a ring band etc) and apply Nitric Acid to the spot.

If it turns a cloudy grey color it is Sterling Silver. If it turns black it is Coin Silver. What you don't want is for it to turn green which indicates it is plated.

You must ensure you make the scratch deep enough to go beneath any plating though, else it won't react as it has to reach any base metal underneath. This can be a little unsightly so make sure it is in an unobtrusive area.

Testing Silver and Silver Grades

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